In northwest Seattle, there is a place where real ships rise and descend as if on a giant elevator. These are Ballard Locks, which opened in 1917. They were built for money and jobs: sawmills, shipyards, and fishermen needed access to the lakes. But along with new profits, the locks brought new problems—especially for salmon, which return home through these waters every year. Let’s look at who benefited, who lost out, and who pays for the consequences.
Why Do Ships Need an “Elevator”?
Imagine two bathtubs standing at different heights. One is filled with salt water—the waters of Puget Sound—and the other with fresh water from Lake Union and Lake Washington. Their water levels are different. If you simply made a hole between them, the water would rush in one direction and everything would mix together. That is why locks were invented: they are something like a room with gates. A ship enters, the gates close, and the water in the chamber is raised or lowered, moving the ship to the required level. Then the second gates open, and the ship continues on its way.
Such a structure is, of course, not small. It took several years to build, and the chief engineer was Hiram Chittenden of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. The locks are officially named after him—the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks. But Seattle residents more often simply call them “Ballard,” after the neighborhood.
Who Wanted the Locks—and Why Were They Profitable?
The idea of connecting the lakes to the sea appeared very early, back in the mid-19th century. At that time, the city was only beginning to grow. But it was not until the early 20th century that people seriously pursued the locks, when it became clear that they could generate substantial profits.
Here are several reasons why people wanted the locks:
- Sawmills and timber. Logs had to be floated to sawmills. The lakes, with their calm waters, proved more convenient than the open sound.
- Shipyards and ship repairs. In salt water, ship hulls become covered with barnacles, while wood is damaged by shipworms—actually mollusks that bore into wood like worms into an apple. This does not happen in fresh water, so ships could be stored and repaired more cheaply.
- The fishing fleet. Fishing vessels gained a calm and safe harbor. Today, many of them spend the winter at the docks near Fishermen’s Terminal.
- Industry around the lakes. Workshops, factories, and warehouses appeared near Lake Union.
Put simply, the locks functioned like a “road” along which money traveled by boat. For the city, this meant jobs, tax revenue, and growth for Ballard, where many residents were of Scandinavian origin and worked in the fishing and timber industries.
The Price of Progress: A Lost River and a Lake with a Higher Water Level
For the locks to work, the water levels in the lakes had to be changed. In 1916, the level of Lake Washington was raised by about 2.7 meters—around 9 feet. A new canal running through the city was also built for this purpose.
Now for the unpleasant part. Previously, the Black River flowed out of Lake Washington. After the water level was raised, it almost dried up. This was not simply a river: fish traveled through it, and people lived along its banks, including the Duwamish and other Salish peoples, for whom water and salmon were the foundation of life. The shorelines of the lakes changed, some land was flooded, while other areas were exposed.
This is a good example of how the economy “chooses.” For some groups—timber companies and shipyards—the locks were an obvious gain. For others—for the fish and the people who lived along the river—they were a loss. And that loss had almost no “price tag.”
A Salmon Ladder and a Sea Lion Named Herman
The builders of the locks understood that salmon needed a way through. Every year, adult fish return from the ocean to the river or stream where they were born to lay their eggs. That is why a fishway was built beside the locks, often called a “fish ladder.” It consists of a series of small pools rising in steps. The fish jump or swim from one pool to the next until they reach the top. Through the viewing windows, you can see them swimming right past you. If you visit in summer, you may see the fish with your own eyes—it is an unusual sight.
But there are plenty of problems. The lake water is warm, while salmon need cold water. Predators sometimes gather near the locks. In the late 20th century, a sea lion named Herman became famous for learning to catch steelhead right by the dam. For fish that were already declining in number, this was dangerous. Authorities tried various methods: frightening the sea lions away, capturing them, and relocating them. Eventually, this became a separate and expensive task, requiring payments to workers, scientists, and agencies to protect the fish.
How the “Cost” of the Locks Changed: A Brief Overview
| Period | What happened |
|---|---|
| Mid-19th century | The first ideas emerge for connecting the lakes to the sea |
| Early 20th century | Construction begins; the chief engineer is Hiram Chittenden |
| 1916–1917 | Lake Washington’s level is raised and the locks open |
| Mid-20th century | The locks serve commercial, fishing, and industrial vessels |
| Late 20th century | The number of recreational boats increases; concern for salmon grows |
| 21st century | The locks remain an important transportation hub and a place where fish are monitored |
What I Think About This Story
To me, the most interesting part is the “bill” that arrives later. When the locks were built, people were thinking about profits: timber, ships, and jobs. They thought less about the fish, the river, and the people who lived there. Then it became clear that the fish had to be protected—and that this required money, scientists, and special structures. In the end, fixing the damage means paying a second time.
That does not mean the locks are evil. They provide people with jobs, enjoyment—just look at the crowds of boating enthusiasts who gather around the locks on weekends—and a beautiful city. But they teach an important lesson: whenever we build something, it is worth thinking immediately about whom it might harm and how that harm can be prevented.
Conclusion
Ballard Locks are not simply a “ship elevator.” They are a story about how the economy changes nature, and how nature later reminds us of the consequences. The locks brought growth and jobs to Seattle, but they cost the city the Black River and created many difficulties for salmon. Today, the “fish ladder” and efforts to protect aquatic life have become part of how the city pays that bill. If you find yourself in Seattle, be sure to visit the locks: you will see ships and fish, and you will understand that even the most useful structure has its own story—and its own price.
