Ahead of the World Cup match between Belgium and Egypt in Seattle, a Seattle Times reporter with Belgian roots set out to find the city's best fries. Contrary to popular belief, Belgium is considered the birthplace of French fries, and locals have turned the dish into a genuine cultural icon. The country of fewer than 12 million people is the largest exporter of frozen fries, and small street fry stands are recognized as part of the national heritage.
To determine what makes fries truly Belgian, the author consulted an unquestioned authority — her mother. According to her, the ideal fries should be cut into thick sticks from Bintje potatoes and fried twice in beef fat. But her mother sadly noted that even in Belgium the traditional recipe is becoming less common. In Seattle, billed as the "capital of healthy eating" in the U.S., beef fat is often replaced by duck fat or vegetable oil — a result of food trends, the popularity of plant-based alternatives and vegan preferences. The author didn’t expect Seattle establishments to do the impossible: she only wanted a good crunchy crust, a tender core and rich flavor without excessive salt.
In her search she consulted family members, including about fries with truffle oil. The family reaction was unanimous: from “that’s not for me” to a categorical and profane refusal. So the reporter focused on classic versions, avoiding excesses like spirals or spicy add-ins. In the end she selected four places that serve fries that wouldn’t offend a Belgian.
First on the list is Little Beast in Ballard — a historic Scandinavian neighborhood with trendy restaurants and bars. A server promised it would be “the best version of Dick’s Drive-In,” and didn’t lie. Dick’s Drive-In is an iconic Seattle fast-food chain founded in 1954, a city symbol with a simple menu, low prices and the fact that its locations are never open on Sundays. For locals it’s a nostalgic “local fast food.” Unlike that chain, where fries often get soggy in a paper bag, Little Beast serves them on a plate — no hint of limpness, with an ideal balance of crunch and chew. The $8 fries are hand-cut and double-fried in beef fat, which would surely earn the author’s mother’s approval.
At the gastropub Damn the Weather in Pioneer Square, the city’s oldest neighborhood with brick architecture and galleries, the fries are cooked in duck fat and lightly dusted with a Chinese “five-spice” blend (fennel, clove, star anise, Sichuan pepper and cinnamon). They’re served with ketchup and aioli ($14). The author recommends pairing them with prosecco to make the richness of the dish less noticeable. Although the fries came out quite dark and oily, that only amplified their flavor. There’s a vegetarian option fried in vegetable oil for $12.
Le Coin in Fremont, a bohemian hub with street art and the famous “bridge of gnomes,” surprised by achieving deep flavor without using meat fat. The potatoes are blanched, soaked in brine, frozen for four days, then fried before service and again — this time with garlic and herbs — all in vegetable oil. However, the aioli served with the fries ($7 during happy hour — the period from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. when restaurants offer discounts to attract customers during “off-peak” hours) is made with bone marrow — vegetarians should be cautious. A light hint of garlic and rosemary makes every second bite especially interesting.
Rounding out the selection is cozy Good Voyage Café in South Park — an industrial area with views of the port and affordable spots for locals. There the fries ($7) are soaked in brine and double-fried in canola oil — they turn out very crispy and salty. They’re served with house garlic aioli or a honey-sriracha sauce. The atmosphere evokes a Parisian flea market with antique candlesticks, and in summer a cozy patio with colorful chairs opens up. The author admits this isn’t exactly an authentic Belgian experience, but it’s a great option for a casual dinner with a cocktail.
Based on: Best Belgian frites in Seattle? Our writer found 4 great plates